1661 Marie-Angelique de Fontanges

In the 1660s, embroidered jackets were a significant fashion statement for both men and women. These jackets were often richly adorned with intricate embroidery, showcasing the craftsmanship and artistry of the period. Women’s jackets, in particular, featured elaborate designs using techniques such as satin stitch, stem stitch, couching, and sometimes detached buttonhole stitching. The embroidery on these jackets was typically done in colored silks on a linen ground.

One notable example is a jacket described as early 17th century in the Victoria & Albert Museum collection. This jacket features embroidery dated to 1590-1600 and is richly adorned with silver and silver-gilt thread, purl, strip, and spangles. The technique used on this jacket differs from other embroidered jackets of the time, as it showcases a unique style of embroidery that stands out for its materials and design.

Inspiration to this historical fabric design: I have found from this VAM Collection and the 17th century Tudor dynasty waistcoats and jackets. The botanical features include honeysuckle, pansies, carnations, foxgloves, borage, strawberries, cornflowers, rosehips, thistles, columbine and vine leaves. There are also pea-pods which include small silver-gilt thread peas, around all of which there are small birds, bees and worms.