Caraco
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The caraco was a style of women’s jacket that gained popularity in the mid-18th century, particularly from the 1760s to the early 19th century. It is characterized by its thigh-length design and front opening, often featuring tight three-quarter or long sleeves. The construction of the caraco allowed for variations in fit; it could be tailored to fit snugly at the waist or have a looser, pleated back reminiscent of sack-back gowns.
Origins and Evolution
The caraco emerged as an informal garment in France, influenced by working-class jackets. This style was typically worn with a petticoat, which was a common undergarment that complemented the caraco. In many instances, if the caraco was left open at the front, it would be paired with a stomacher or decorative stays to maintain modesty and style. The English version of the caraco generally featured a closed front, differing slightly from its French counterpart.
Design Features
Caracos were primarily made from printed linen or cotton fabrics, reflecting the textile trends of the time. They often showcased vibrant patterns and colors, which were popular among women of various social classes. The fitted back of a caraco distinguished it from other contemporary jackets; while some jackets had pleats that obscured the back’s shape (like sack gowns), caracos maintained a more structured silhouette.
Fashion Context
In terms of fashion context, caracos were considered suitable for daywear and served as an alternative to more formal dresses like the robe à la française. They were particularly favored by bourgeois women and even servants due to their practicality and ease of wear compared to full gowns. The versatility in length—ranging from hip-length to longer styles—allowed wearers to adapt their outfits based on occasion and personal preference.
Terminology Confusion
The terminology surrounding women’s jackets during this period can be complex. While “caraco” generally refers to fitted-back garments with shaped panels and inverse box pleats at the waist, other terms like “casaquin” and “pierrot” are sometimes used interchangeably or inaccurately in historical texts. This can lead to confusion when identifying specific styles within museum collections or fashion literature.